The French Quarter

I spent parts of my last two days in New Orleans in the French Quarter. I’m sure the day time French Quarter is much different then the night time French Quarter. I only experienced it during the day, as I was there alone.

 

The French Quarter, also known as Vieux Carré, is the oldest and most famous neighborhood in the city of New Orleans. When New Orleans was founded in 1718 by Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne de Bienville, the city was originally centered on the French Quarter, or the Vieux Carré ("Old Square" in French) as it was known then. While the area is still referred to as the Vieux Carré by some, it is more commonly known as the French Quarter today, or simply "The Quarter." The district as a whole is a National Historic Landmark, and contains numerous individual historic buildings. It was affected relatively lightly by Hurricane Katrina in 2005, as compared to other areas of the city and the region as a whole.

 

 

Many of the buildings date from before New Orleans became part of the United States, although there are some late 19th century and early 20th century buildings in the area as well. Since the 1920s the historic buildings have been protected by law and cannot be demolished, and any renovations or new construction in the neighborhood must be done according to regulations to match the period historic architectural style.

 

 

 

 

Most of the French Quarter's architecture was built during the time of Spanish rule over New Orleans and this is reflected in its architecture. The Great New Orleans Fire (1788) and another great fire in 1794 destroyed most of the Quarter's old French colonial architecture, leaving the colony's new Spanish overlords to rebuild it according to more modern tastes—and strict new fire codes, which mandated that all structures be physically adjacent and close to the curb to create a firewall. The old French peaked roofs were replaced with flat tiled ones, and now-banned wooden siding with fire-resistant stucco, painted in the pastel hues fashionable at the time. As a result, colorful walls and roofs and elaborately decorated ironwork balconies and galleries, from both the 18th century and the early 19th century, abound. (In southeast Louisiana, a distinction is made between "balconies", which are self supporting and attached to the side of the building, and "galleries" which are supported from the ground by poles or columns.)

In the late 19th century the Quarter became a less fashionable part of town, and many immigrants from southern Italy and Ireland settled in the section. In the early 20th century the Quarter's cheap rents and air of age and neglected decay attracted a bohemian and artistic community.

On December 21, 1965, the "Vieux Carre Historic District" was designated a National Historic Landmark. This was in response to the planned Vieux Carré Riverfront Expressway. Preservation activities were led by Jacob Haight Morrison, IV, an attorney who headed the Vieux Carré Property Owners, Residents, and Associates. 

In the 1980s many long-term Quarter residents were driven away by rising rents as property values rose dramatically with expectations of windfalls from the planned 1984 World's Fair nearby. More of the neighborhood became developed for the benefit of tourism. The French Quarter remains a combination of residential, hotels, guest houses, bars and tourist-oriented commercial properties.

 

This is the LaLaurie Mansion. Delphine LaLaurie, also known as Madame LaLaurie (born Marie Delphine Macarty), was an American socialite and supposed serial killer, who according to legend helped torture, mutilate and kill nearly 100 black slaves. Delphine Macarty was born circa 1775 to Barthelmy Louis Macarty and Vevue Lecomte, prominent members of the New Orleans white Créole community. Macarty's mother was allegedly killed in a slave uprising.

Although she would throw lavish parties with guest lists consisting of some of the most prominent people in the city, the manner in which Delphine LaLaurie tortured her slaves is probably the most widely known of the French Quarter’s macabre tales.

Delphine LaLaurie has attained a reputation in folklore as a torturess and serial killer of black slaves. According to tradition, in 1833, after several neighbors allegedly saw her "cowhiding" (viciously whipping) a young servant girl in the mansion's courtyard, rumors began to spread around town that LaLaurie treated her servants viciously. According to one tale, a young slave girl was brushing LaLaurie's hair in the upstairs bedroom when the comb hit a snag in her mistress's hair, enraging LaLaurie. LaLaurie whipped the 8-year-old slave girl, who tried to escape but fell to her death from a balcony overlooking the courtyard. The girl was quickly brought into the LaLaurie Mansion, but not before being observed by neighbors, who filed a complaint. The neighbors later asserted that the young girl was buried under a tree in the yard.

The legalities of the situation were handled by Judge Jean Francois Canonge, a friend of the LaLauries, who had visited the house on a previous occasion concerning the welfare of the LaLaurie servants. The LaLaurie slaves were confiscated and put up for auction, and the LaLauries were fined $500. Some of the LaLaurie relatives arranged to buy the slaves back and quickly returned them to her.

On April 10, 1834, during another party, a fire broke out in the kitchen of the mansion. The kitchen — as was the norm in Spanish mansions — was separate from the home and located over the carriageway building across the courtyard. The firemen entered the building through the courtyard. To their surprise, there were two slaves chained to the stove in the kitchen. It appeared as though the slaves had set the fire themselves in order to attract attention. The fire itself was soon subdued.

LaLaurie escaped by horse and carriage to Bayou St. John, where she allegedly paid the captain of a schooner to carry her across to Mandeville or Covington. Many claimed they escaped to Paris. Others say they remained on the outskirts of New Orleans. Nonetheless, it is known that Madame Delphine died in Paris.

In 2007, Nicolas Cage bought the mansion but sold it in 2008.

New Orleans is definitely a place I would like to visit again. Just at a cooler time of year!! I would also like to see the friends I meet there again, Darin, Miss Margie & George. Thanks for everything.

Where I've Been

One of my goals is to visit every state in the United States. Well at least the continental United States. I visited 7 new ones this year. Next summer I hope to hit the other 5, at least they are in the northern part of the United States! Not so hot...

Lafayette Cemetery, Garden District

Today I was driving through the Garden District and protruding over the wall along the street, I saw the tops of tombs. I just happen to stumble on the Lafayette Cemetery. I have been wanting to photograph a cemetery ever since I arrived here so I took this chance to do just that.

Established in 1833, Lafayette Cemetery No.1 in the Garden District of New Orleans is a unique monument to a city which has known a tremendous amount of cultural diversity. A person can spend hours here, exploring and delving into the rich history of the city. Within it's walls lies the possibility to trace aspects of the city's growth from Creole settlement (1718), to American (1803), to a thriving city of immigrants and beyond.

The land occupied by the cemetery was once part of a plantation owned by the Livaudais family, of French heritage. In 1832, Madame Livaudais decided to sell her land and the tract was subdivided to form the major portion of what was incorporated as the (old) City of Lafayette one year later.

This period coincides with a massive influx into the region of (mostly European) immigrant groups-such as Germans, Irish, and Americans from the North. These newcomers were hard-working and industrious, leaving their mark in a number of different ways, contributing to the new age of business and culture which was rapidly changing the face of New Orleans. Germans provided the backbone of the middle class, and Irish the labor to perform often dangerous construction feats. Other groups such as Italians, English, Scottish, Dutch and Scandinavian are also represented. Because of this, the cemetery has always been non-segregated and non-denominational. A few families of African descent have tombs here, also.

 

 

Noticeable is the incredible loss of life during the 19th century, due to 'yellow fever'- a mosquito-borne illness, which seemed to affect newcomers much more heavily than established residents. A multitude of various causes-from epidemics to unsanitary conditions-contributed to a high infant mortality rate. Children often died before their second birthday, and many families were completely decimated.

 

Walking through the gate of Lafayette Cemetery is like walking through a portal into the past. Row upon row of raised tombs, some a century and a half old, arranged somewhat like houses in a city. You may have heard the expression "cities of the dead" used to describe them.

Why people are buried this way is a fact I found to be very interesting. There are a large number of names on a tomb, because a technique called "unlimited interment" is employed. This is also a common tradition around the world, especially in places with a direct or indirect Latin, Roman-Catholic influence.

Once a coffin or casket is placed into a tomb or other interment vehicle, it is sealed with brick and mortar or covered with soil. In the case of our vaults and family tombs, this is merely the process of laying a simple brick "wall" before the vault entrance. After the minimum period has gone by, usually one year and one day, the tomb may be re-used, if needed, by simply removing the seal, separating the human remains from what is left of the casket , and replacing the remains back into the tomb (either pushed to the rear of the vault, or placed in the bottom). The casket is simply disposed of, so for that reason this burial style doesn't usually require the use of expensive caskets.

 

Interments are not opened unless they are needed, which may be many years later. However, previous remains are ultimately allowed to simply deteriorate in the bottom of the tomb, which is what "Latin" interment practice is about. Ensuring that remains are left at the burial site, allowing the natural process to take place fulfills the requirements of "ashes to ashes.......dust to dust". This process may take decades, although one year is nominally, due to the history of epidemics in the city during the nineteenth century, plus one day out of deference to the family, considered enough time for a body to decompose enough to be handled and fulfill the minimum deference requirements. Remains from all interment vehicles remain at the interment site, unless families request that remains be transferred or handled in a specific manner. 

 

 

 

What stands out most about the cemetery, in light of the fact that it is based on what is commonly referred to as a "Latin-style" cemetery, is the low number of Latin family names to be found here. It is easy to see that most of the names are German, which makes it even more interesting, given the centuries-long rivalry between the French and the Germans. This is simply another sign of the cultural  "melting pot " that is New Orleans. As more and more immigrant groups arrived they were invariably subjected to the traditions of earlier cultures- adopting many of the established practices as their own within a few generations.

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are a number of different burial traditions practiced within the cemetery, each with their own unique origins...

Family tombs are most common in the cemetery and there’s a belief that above-ground burial is due to the city's inherent water problems. But, this style originated in the Mediterranean region thousands of years ago and was introduced to New Orleans by the French and Spanish "creoles", which actually means "colonists".Tombs, mausoleums, and other raised, non-earthen, burial styles are common in most regions of the world with a strong Latin, Roman Catholic tradition, and a theory which is logical for anyone familiar with Southern Europe is that it evolved as a result of "rocky" soil in the region, making it more practical to find or build a burial structure. Also, above ground burials were were a symbol of status and class.

 

 

Originating in the same way as the family tombs, society tombs are for the members of various organizations, and their families. Many religious groups, clubs, fraternal societies, etc., as well as military, law enforcement and fire organizations had their own tombs and "benevolent associations" to handle the wishes of their members. Especially practical for families who could not afford their own family tomb. each vault in these multi-vaulted structures was (and still is, in many cases) assigned to individual families.

 

 

Also common in the cemetery are what are referred to as "copings", or retaining walls for soil, raising the burial level several feet above the ground. This , as in the case of the tombs, is also not because of water but due to a different cultural tradition originating in the eastern part of the Mediterranean. Some cultures, such as Jewish, Arabic or Protestant, for example,  prefer earthen burial to above-ground. This style is also found in many places around the world. There are also a small number of soil burials flush in the ground found in the cemetery usually surrounded by cast-iron fencing, and a few in-ground vaults. The reason they are not very common in Lafayette Cemetery seems to be more because of the location of the cemetery and it's  middle-to-upper-class orientation, as paupers and potters field cemeteries are usually all below ground.

 

 

 

Wall vaults were used when tombs were not available  for interments, such as for new families or if the minimum period of a year and a day had not yet passed. Ultimately all were sold outright to families, but during the worst days of 'yellow fever', many were used temporarily. After the period requirement was fulfilled, remains could then be transferred to their final resting place.

Gulf Coast

Today I left Louisiana with the destination of Alabama. I took the scenic route along the coast. I had no idea that Biloxi had that long stretch of beauiful beach!! This is my first time seeing the Gulf of Mexico, I'm hoping it won't be my last!

I came across the St Louis Bay bridge and stopped at the first beach I saw, which was Harrison County Sand Beach. Not much for original names I guess. :) The sand is really fine, nice to walk on. The beach was not crowded like they would be in Cali, and it was around 90 so you would think you would see lots of people out. I think because there is such a long stretch of beach there is plenty for everyone! For the picture to the left I was walking and just put the camera at my side pointed behind me and took the shot. Not bad for not knowing what I was shooting at!

When headed east the right side of the road is all beach and on the left side is beautiful houses like the one picture here. Although, there are quite a few empty lots right now. Katrina definitely has left it's mark along this stretch of Mississippi. I asked a lady to take my picture and then she told me about how much more beautiful it was here before Katrina hit. The road was lined with century old beautiful homes and lots more trees. She had just moved 7 miles in shore and if she would have stayed in the place she was living she would have drowned. The water that came into her previous residence was at 32 feet. She said the eye of the storm came in right about over St Louis Bay, and it came in at a catagory 5 then came back down as a catagory 3 storm. The new house being built are put on stilts like the one you see here in this picture.

Thankfully, it's less humid here then in New Orleans. It was a georgous day to be at the beach, walking in the water.

I also stopped at Ken Combs Pier. Many people out fishing on the pier but they weren't have much luck. I had to take this picture of the Xtrerra at the Gulf of Mexico. I'm so proud of her, I love that truck. LOL I've put almost 1800 miles on her since leaving Minnesota on June 3rd. And that's with driving only a few miles the 5 days I was volunteering.

I hate my picture taken but I figured I need to have a few...

I continued on to Alabama since I have never been there before and it was so close. Not sure where I should go there so I tapped into my GPS for some advice. Right there under attractions was Dauphin Island. On the island is Fort Gaines. I thought that would be a good place to go with my fastination with old things. Plus, it's an island, you can never go wrong with going to an island! The lady at the gift shop told me they consider themselves the edge of the southern world.

For all you history buffs out there... Dauphin Island was named Massacre Island in 1699, because of the large pile of human skeletons that were discovered by a French explorer. A colony was built there at that time and later rebuilt after a pirate raid in 1711. Six years later a hurricane almost destroyed the settlement. In 1813 the United States seized the territory around Mobile Bay which is where the island it.

The war of 1812 proved that America needed adequate defenses for its long coastline. Construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. Ok, thats enough of that history stuff, I'm getting bored! LOL I was never much of a history buff. If you're into war history this fort has plenty of it, all the way up to WWII. So, if this interest you and you're in the area you would probably be interested in visiting Fort Gaines.

And this too shall pass...

I left the volunteer house last evening. I just could not stay with all the things I was learning about the running of the organization. I am sad because all the residents that I met there were very nice people. One of the resident volunteers made sure my air conditioning was working in my truck, without charging me a cent. When he couldn't get it going, he brang me to a friend of his that could. He didn't charge me either. So I would like to thank Darin for having such a kind heart. He is a permanent volunteer there. Well he does get paid, but very little. It's almost an insult to offer him what he does get paid for the amount of hours he puts in there, it would come out to around $2 an hour. The way I was treated, and the way the residents are treated, is a shame! They should be greatful to every volunteer that comes thru their doors, but they are not. Now, if you have been considering doing something like this, don't let this deter you, just find a different organization to work with. There is a great need here.

I am not sure the reason why God has sent me here, but I do plan on letting them know why I left. The man who started the organization and is still in charge actually lives in Maine, I am hoping my message gets all the way to him. Maybe the reason is for me to call attention to the problems and something will be done about it. I'm hoping he doesn't know it's like this, but he might.

When my car was getting worked on I was talking to a resident who has lived there all his life and he said New Orleans is not the same since Katrina. He said you don't know who you can trust. The only people he feels he can trust are the people he grew up with that he is still friends with. Shame on all the people who came into this area to take advantage if these people going thru such hard times. The selfish greed of some people make me sick. And, yes, I know these are not just out siders. He said even people he knew that were displaced to other areas such as Texas, Illinois, etc, came back to the area to con people and then were gone, back to where they relocated to.

About a third of the house here in the lower ninth ward have not been touched since the hurricane. That was 5 years ago! I walked up to the door of the house shown on here and I could smell the mold and mildew coming from within. Some house were knocked off there foundations and sit, crooked, and a danger. A lot of house still have the X that gave information on date searched and if anyone was found, dead or alive.

I guess I dont know what else to say. It's hard to describe, you kinda have to see it.

I am off to Mississippi and Alabama today. Going to drive along the gulf coast. Maybe I will have images of the oil spill washing up on the beaches for you tomorrow. Maybe I can find some good news along the way too, somewhere...

Monday, First day of work

Yesterday as I was getting into New Orleans I was so excite to finally be here. Excited to meet new people, work hard & share my experiences with all of you.

As I drove into the neighborhood I would be working in saw many vacant houses and very run down houses that people where living in. I was never here before so I can't know what the condition was before Katrina, but there are some houses you know are like that because of the disaster.

I arrived at the volunteer house yesterday about 3:30pm and there wasn't anyone around. The one guy that was there showed me my choice of 2 bedrooms. I took the one that only had one other person in it. The rooms are suppose to hold 8 and I knew they would be small but dang! LOL Most of the mattress are blow up, thankfully the house wasn't full so I could get a regular one. I packed my 5 weeks worth of clothes in a bin but since it won't fit under my bed I have to keep it in the Xterra and go out everynight and bring in what I need for the next day. My computer case and camera gear is safetly locked to my bed tho so at least I dont have to worry about them.

As more people came into the house I found out the others were all hung over from the night before. The guy who runs the place was still passed out from it. So that didn't make a first good impression. When he finally wakes up he walks in the main room and just looks at me like who are you. I introduced myself and he said I tried to call you yesterday and walks away. Nice, second impression was as good as the first. The rest of the crew was not very friendly either.

A little while later a few of the crew leaders leave to watch the Celtics game. An hour and a half later the guy who runs the place texted someone who didn't go and let him know that they would be needing a ride home.

Meantime, back at the house, there was drama going on! LOL A lady, who I think has been in the house for about a week, was letting everyone know that he and one of the crew leaders have been 'together" for the last 2 days and now he just left to go "lay" with someone else. OMG! Is she serious right now. Sex, alcohol and volunteering... I didn't realize. Buy this time I was so disappointed in this place all I could do is laugh, and I mean cracking up laughing! Just then the same lady said "oh, a roach" and smashes something. I just held my head and laughed more, wondering how I get myself into these situations! I was just hoping for a good work week and that I would meet some people in the neighborhood.

Woke up the next day at 5:55 and laid there looking at the ceiling wondering what the strange sounds I heard on the other end of the room during the night! LOL Got up, showered and got ready to work.

I was assigned electrical work, in what turned out to the be hottest house the organization was working in today. We worked with a lady electician who's been one for 32 years.

I worked on wiring electrical boxes and testing wires. It was so hot in there sweat was dripping off me when I was just sitting on a stool tapping the outlet boxes! The roof was not vented yet so the heat just built up with no where to go. I was daydreaming about snow! I made it thru tho and it was good to see the rooms get finished one by one. Margie, the electrician, would not believe me when I said I never did this kind of work before. LOL She asked me three times and after the third no, she looked at another volunteer and said "she's BSing me, look how she just thread thru those corner holes. She mentioned I might want to go to school for it because I am good at it.

The house we worked on was owned by the sister of George, the man we were working beside. This is a picture of him sitting on the steps of his Mom's house, which is next to his sister.

George didn't leave during the hurricane, he stayed in his house. The water was 9 feet deep and took 3 weeks to recede. After four days the police came buy and George told them he didn't have any food. They said "you should have planned better", he said "I didn't know", they said "well you know now, you idiot, we'll be back in a few days with food." George did get out and went to stay with family in Baton Rouge. He came back shortly after the water receded and said the smell was so bad he couldn't stay. There were so many dead things and they were rotting.  He came back to crooks with guns trying to rob him and people looting house that had a second story. Gators had washed up into the neighborhood and were eating the dogs.

What hit me the most was when George said, "I was in Vietnam and the conditions there were more humane then they were here after the hurricane." He also talked about the treatment and lack of help the neighborhood received. He said it was no longer about race but about status and class. He said the black neighborhoods that had money received help, but the ones that don't have the money didn't.

George and people like him are the reason I am here. Unfortunately, I will no longer be staying for 5 weeks, just this one.

Travel Day 2

I woke up in Sikeston, MO knowing I only had 4 hours of drive time today but didn't need to get to my destination until 3 or 4 pm. I decided to leave about 10am and take my time to get to West Memphis, AR. So today I would be able to stop and take some pictures if the places I see! It was actually only a 2.5 hour drive but I wanted to detour through Kentucky and Tennesee, just because I've never been to Kentucky.

I had time to stop at attractions along the way, unfortunately, there weren't that many. There was a promise of a historical marker 1/2 miles ahead as I was near to leaving MO. No such marker appeared tho. LOL I was happy to leave MO behind. I didn't realize I had to cut thru IL for 1/4 mile before entering Kentucky.

Kentucky did not disappoint. The first town I arrived in was Wickliffe, where I was almost taken out by a semi turning at a way to fast of a speed. He must have been doing that for a while because he pulled it off! On the south end of town there was a sign for a scenic overlook. I turn where the sign directed me and look to the right and saw the largest cross I have ever seen in my life. Thought it was appropriate after the near death experience only minutes before with the semi!

The cross was built 90 feet tall so that it could be seen from the tri-states of Missouri, Illinois & Kentucky. It is quite incredible to see. It is located at the top of a hill right off the river.

The Fort Jefferson Memorial Cross is used for weddings, memorial services, candle light services on September 11th and revivals.

Further down the road was Bardwell, KY where the picture of the BBQ place was taken. Now, I didn't stop there but I bet that would be some of the best BBQ I ever had! This is the type of place that focuses on how they cook the BBQ and not on impressing with fancy unnecessary things.

I found Clinton, KY to be in interesting little town. Those who know me, know I like old & falling down things. The roads were really narrow and I have included a picture here of the bridge I had to go over. When I came up to it, I was not so sure that was a good idea tho. Here are a few pictures of what I found there.

Not sure that these are but thought they looked cool.

Tennesse brought rain as I was comimg up on Union City. Had to roll up the windows and with no air conditioning, this is not a pleasant experience! Luckily the rain storm did not last long and as I was leaving Union City, after stopping for lunch, the rain was ending. I was hoping it would be a little cooler since the rain came thru and it was, slightly.

I love storms but I wasn't lucky enough of get one that had thunder and lighnting this time.

They sure are friendly in TN, as I was driving 65 down highway 51 one of the guys that were mowing waved, I waved back. :)

I crossed back over into MO to head south in Arkansas. I ran into another rain storm in Arkansas but again no thunder and lightning.

I have to say in all the states I went through, much to my surprise, Kentucky was definitely my favorite. Today I stay in Memphis and plan on leaving about 8am tomorrow morning for my 6 hour drive to New Orleans. I heard here from a guy at the auto parts store that New Orleans has drive thru liquor store that will mix you up a Margarita. Now that is something I'm looking forward to experiencing!!